Kudin Most, Panin Buk and Visoki Buk – a big loop through the Krupa River canyon

Kudin Most

Below the parking area, an entrance fee is collected and the route begins with a descent on a rocky path, with lovely views down into the canyon where the Krupa River winds along the bottom. Along its short course you’ll find countless cascades, several waterfalls, and the more than 100-metre-long stone Kudin Most. The trail drops right to it, and its 12 arches will take you dry-shod to the left bank of the river.

Panin Buk waterfall and river crossing

From Kudin Most, a footpath follows the river downstream, skirting the lower edge of a large scree slope before leading to a meadow, at the end of which roars the Panin Buk waterfall. The path ends here, and the only way to continue is by fording the river. Do not try to cross right above the waterfall. Instead, head a few dozen metres back upstream, where the river is wider, shallower, and the current is weaker.

The ford is only possible at normal water levels – after rain or in spring, when the water is often high, the crossing can be dangerous.

The calm stretch of river

After the ford, the path continues along the river, which tumbles over dozens of smaller cascades and waterfalls. Gradually it enters a calmer section, where the water is deep and flows only lazily. All around you, you’ll hear the characteristic plopping of frogs jumping into the water ahead of you.

Some sections here may be flooded, in which case you’ll need to look for alternative tracks a little higher up the slope.

Visoki Buk waterfall

The calm section ends at a bend where the current once again breaks over a series of cascades – among the best known are Babin Slap and Dragičevića Buk. A little farther on, at the next bend, the Krupa flows into the larger Zrmanja, which arrives from the canyon on the left.

At this very bend, just beyond the confluence of the two rivers, there is an easy-to-miss junction where a trail branches right and climbs out of the canyon.

Before starting the ascent, make a short detour of about 100 metres downstream to Visoki Buk, one of the prettiest waterfalls on the whole hike.

Return

From the junction, the trail climbs back up the canyon wall to the upper rim. As you gain height, the views of the confluence become more and more impressive. Around the village of Golubić, watch the waymarks carefully – in places they are not entirely clear.

The route then joins an old shepherds’ path, passes the Grčka Lokva watering place, and finally descends to the small village where you turned off toward the parking area at the start. From there, return to your car along the asphalt road. About halfway along this section, you can also take a marked footpath on the right, which leads back to the parking area as well.

Tips and warnings

• Fording the Krupa River – at higher water levels (in spring or after heavy rain) it can be dangerous. If you are unsure, it is better to turn back the way you came.
• Summer heat – the upper part of the route above the canyon has no shade and on hot days can feel like an oven. Carry plenty of water.
• Footwear – the rocky terrain on the ascent and descent, as well as the scree slopes, require sturdy shoes. Sandals or flip-flops are not suitable.
• Parking – the small parking area fills up quickly. Arrive early in the morning, otherwise you may need to look for a spot along the narrow access road.
• Swimming – in the calmer sections of the Krupa, you can cool off in the cold water. Watch out for slippery rocks.
• Waymarking – in places it is poor. The turn out of the canyon is easy to miss, and around Golubić you may need to look carefully for the trail markers or check a map on your phone.

Useful info