Ridge Traverse of Malá Fatra

You can start and finish the ridge traverse in several different places, and it can be walked in either direction. There are quite a few reasons to do it in the opposite direction from the one described here. The main one is Jánošíkove diery. There have been efforts to make it one-way for ascent only, and common sense also says that ladders and rocky sections are easier to tackle uphill than downhill. However, if you don’t want to break the National Park rules and plan to sleep only in mountain huts, starting in Strečno is the only way to avoid a very demanding day with nearly 2,000 metres of total ascent, over Veľký Rozsutec, Stoh and Poludňový Grúň all the way to Chata pod Chlebom, which you would otherwise face.

Malá Fatra Traverse - Day 1

From the train stop, head left. After a few minutes you’ll reach the footbridge over the Váh, where there is a trail signpost at Nezbudská Lúčka (360 m). From here follow the red trail, which leads out of the village through an underpass beneath the railway. At first it crosses meadows, later runs along the Váh, and eventually brings you to the mouth of the valley. At the junction Podhradské (420 m), turn right and climb to the ruins of Starý hrad, which offer a fine view of the Domašín meander.

From the ruins the path climbs steeply, with occasional views of the river far below. The ascent ends only at the unremarkable summit of Plešel (981 m), from where an easy undulating forest track leads to Chata pod Suchým, the end of the first stage.

Malá Fatra Traverse - Day 2

The second day begins with a short but steep climb up the ski slope to the junction at Javorina (1,150 m). From there, an easier section follows, first across meadowland and later through a beautiful beech forest, reaching the long meadow at Príslop pod Suchým saddle (1,202 m). From the saddle, a steep climb of more than 250 vertical metres takes you on a trail winding through forest and dwarf pine up to Suchý (1,468 m).

Suchý is the first major peak on the ridge and also the first place with breathtaking views of the Žilina Basin, the Turiec Basin, Martinské hole, Malý Kriváň, and the opposite Veľká Fatra.

Continue on the red trail along a narrow footpath winding through dense dwarf pine on the narrow ridge, over Biele skaly (1,448 m) and Stratenec (1,513 m). In this section you’ll come across several rocky steps where you’ll need to use your hands. Beyond Stratenec, descend into the broad grassy Priehyb saddle (1,462 m), from where a gradual but lengthy climb begins up to Malý Kriváň (1,671 m).

At the top there is a concrete pillar and a stone windbreak for bivouacking. From here you’ll finally see the part of the ridge that had remained hidden so far, with Veľký Kriváň, Stoh, and both Rozsutec peaks. In good visibility you can also spot Veľký Choč, Babia hora, the Western Tatras, and the Low Tatras.

Continuing on the red trail, you’ll first descend gently along a narrow ridge, then drop steeply into an unnamed saddle (1,440 m) below the summit of Koniarky. As you traverse its slopes toward Bublen saddle (1,510 m), you’ll come across a spring flowing from a metal pipe directly onto the path.

From Bublen saddle, a steep climb up a grassy slope leads to Pekelník (1,609 m). With its very steep southern slopes on your right, you’ll first descend slightly and then climb gently to the junction at edge of Veľký Kriváň (1,650 m). From there it’s less than 15 minutes to the highest peak of the Malá Fatra range - Veľký Kriváň (1,709 m). The view from the top is similar to that from Malý Kriváň, but you’ll also see Snilovské sedlo with the upper cable car station, Vrátna Valley, Chleb, and just to its right Chata pod Chlebom – the end of today’s stage.

Descend back to the junction and turn right, following the gentle descent to Snilovské sedlo (1,524 m). Here, turn right onto the green-marked service road and continue gradually downhill all the way to Chata pod Chlebom.

Malá Fatra Traverse - Day 3

The final day of the traverse is the toughest, so it’s best to set out early in the morning. Follow the yellow-marked path past the spring near the hut to the junction at Kopiská (1,446 m). From there a steeper climb begins up to the ridge at saddle behind Hromové (1,600 m). Turn right and continue on the red trail. Not far from the saddle, the ridge bends left and is followed by a more relaxing, mostly descending stretch across the narrow ridge section known as Steny to Poludňový grúň (1,460 m).

You’ll continue descending gently to Stoh saddle (1,230 m), where a steep and lengthy climb begins to Stoh (1,608 m). The ascent first goes through low forest, often on a muddy trail, past the junction chrbát Stohu (1,320 m), and later follows one of the broad grassy ridges. Stoh is a superb viewpoint, from which much of the ridge you have already crossed is visible. The view of Veľký Rozsutec, still ahead of you, is especially impressive.

Continue with a long descent along another ridge to Medziholie saddle (1,185 m). A short distance from here, toward Osnice saddle, there is a spring with drinking water. Continue on the red trail into the forest, where you begin to gain the first metres of elevation. After a while you’ll emerge from the trees, and with increasing height more rock formations appear. In places you’ll need to steady yourself not only on the rock but also on several chains fixed to it. Just below the summit is a junction from which a short spur leads to the summit cross. The climb to Rozsutec is demanding, but unless you’re afraid of heights, it should be manageable for most hikers – and the views from the top are definitely worth it.

From here there are no more long climbs. Still following the red-marked path, you’ll weave between summit rock outcrops and descend first through dwarf pine and later forest to Medzirozsutce saddle (1,200 m), with a nice view of Malý Rozsutec. At the saddle, turn left onto the blue-marked path, which descends gently. About 150 metres from the saddle there is a worn side path on the right leading to a spring. Not far beyond the spring you’ll pass the junction pod Tanečnicou (1,186 m) and begin descending into the Tesná Rizňa gorge, where the first ladders and chains await.

From the junction pod Tesnou Rizňou (935 m), a short, gently descending and restful section leads to pod Pálenicou (900 m). Here begins the upper part of Jánošíkove diery, known as Horné diery, where you’ll tackle more chain-secured sections, footbridges and ladders, often running directly above the stream or waterfall.

You finally leave the cool world of gorges and canyons behind in the meadow at the junction Podžiar (715 m). Cross the stream and continue on the yellow trail past the mountain hut, where refreshments are available in season. A short climb brings you to Vrchpodžiar saddle (745 m), and still following the yellow trail, after less than 200 metres turn onto a path into the forest that will bring you to Štefanová - the end of the hike - in about 15 minutes.

In Štefanová, you can stay overnight in one of the guesthouses or head straight out by bus (stop “Terchová, Vrátna Štefanová”) via Terchová to Žilina. If you left your car in Strečno, take the bus only as far as Varín; from there it’s just one stop by train. Choose your bus carefully, as most do not go to the railway station and some do not go to Varín at all.

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Useful info

Transport

By car from Žilina on the E50 road to Strečno, where you can park, or take the car ferry across the Váh to Nezbudská Lúčka (www.kompastrecno.sk). You can also reach Nezbudská Lúčka by road from Varín (from Žilina via road no. 583 toward Terchová). Another option is to leave your car in Žilina, which is much easier to get back to. By train, travel to Žilina, then continue by local train to Strečno station.

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Itinerary

• DAY 1: Strečno Chata pod Suchým (2:45) • DAY 2: Chata pod Suchým Suchý (1:15) Malý Kriváň (2:45) Veľký Kriváň (4:30) Snilovské sedlo (4:50) Chata pod Chlebom (5:15) • DAY 3: Chata pod Chlebom Poludňový grúň (1:30) Stoh (3:15) Veľký Rozsutec (5:15) [VARIOUS] Štefanová (8:00)

Water and refreshments along the way

Chata pod Suchým and the spring in front of it, spring below Príslop saddle, spring below Bublen saddle, Chata pod Chlebom and a nearby spring, spring below Medziholie saddle, spring below Medzirozsutce saddle, mountain hut at Podžiar

Alternatives

1. DAY 1:

• Start from Turčianske Kľačany and stay overnight at Chata pod Kľačianskou Magurou (2:30), then join the ridge traverse on Suchý the next day (4:00). See the hike to Malý Kriváň for more details.

2. DAY 2:

• The summits of Suchý and Biele skaly can be bypassed on the yellow-marked trail between Príslop pod Suchým saddle and Vráta (0:45), saving a bit of time and just under 100 metres of ascent.
• If you still have enough time and energy at the end of the day, you can climb from Snilovské sedlo on the red trail to the summit of Chleb (0:30).

3. DAY 3:

• If you didn’t go up Chleb the previous day, you can make a short detour from saddle behind Hromové (0:20).
• Stoh can be bypassed on the yellow-marked traverse between the junction chrbát Stohu and Medziholie saddle (0:45). The path is often very muddy, but you avoid more than 200 metres of climbing and save around an hour.
• From Medziholie saddle, Veľký Rozsutec can be bypassed on the blue-marked traverse to Medzirozsutce saddle (1:00). This saves more than 250 metres of ascent and over an hour of time.